It's more than just the clam chowder that sets a boater's salivary glands in motion here on the 21-mile slice of Atlantic Ocean frontage that makes up New Hampshire's storied Seacoast. To be sure, real New England chowder is more effective at blunting the edge of an evening chill than a first-time diner expects. The lobster, haddock, crab and clams aren't too shabby either.
Here, just south of the New Hampshire-Maine border, the coastline darts inward to form Portsmouth Harbor and the Piscataqua (puh-SCOT-uh-quah) River basin. The boating menu within 15 miles of downtown Portsmouth is as deep as you'll find, anywhere.
Appetizer. Get the juices flowing with a trek to the craggy Isles of Shoals. The nine islands 7 miles offshore are home to historic inns, restaurants and beacons. For a more-secluded experience, dock in the cove at Smuttynose Island and embark on the marked walking tour. (Caveat: no restrooms.)
Venturing into the Atlantic requires a ship-shape vessel; few feelings are worse than drifting helplessly toward a rock-strewn shoreline. It's also wise to watch the weather and travel with a second boat and crew, whenever possible.
Chowder and salad. Another can't-miss course from Portsmouth is an inland jaunt up the Piscataqua River to Hilton Point, where Newick's Lobster House lives up to its reputation for seafood and New England charm. "The river is beautiful, but you best use common sense with the tides and the swift current," says Edward J. Rosholt Jr., who has navigated these waters in lobster and fishing boats for most of his 70-plus years.
Main dish. The river leads into Great Bay, a scenic estuary laced with tributaries. "The bay is great for catching striped bass and bluefish," says Pat Edgerly, who, along with her husband Larry, owns Great Bay Camping on the shores of the Squamscott River. The couple recently purchased an open bow to accommodate their growing quiver of grandchildren. "We needed room for the tubes when we tow the little ones. The river and the bay are really good for that."
Dessert. Closer to Portsmouth, just across the bay, lies Warren's Lobster House in Kittery, Maine, whose colorful cottages invite a stroll through town after dinner — a good way to help Warren's renowned 66-item salad bar, steamed clams and Maine lobster settle.
Feeling full yet? Yep, we thought so. Before you reach for a toothpick, keep in mind that New Hampshire requires a boater's-ed certification or its equivalent from the U.S. Coast Guard Auxiliary, U.S. Power Squadron or home-state agency with NASBLA endorsement. With that in hand, it's time to indulge.
Quick Pass First Impression: It's everything you've imagined of traditional New England, with craggy Atlantic isles topped by centuries-old lighthouses to quiet tidal inlets.
Something You Have to Do: Take a 10-mile trek up the Piscataqua River into Great Bay to explore calm waters filled with wildlife.
Trivia: Ask the folks in Great Bay about former news anchorman Walter Cronkite's many sailboat adventures in the bay.
Launching Here: Solid options include Pierce Island/Prescott Park (at the border of New Hampshire and Maine along Route 1), Hilton Point (along the Piscataqua River) and Depot Road (for putting into Great Bay).
Local Flavor: For some of the planet's best clam chowder and lobster, secure a dock line at Newick's in Great Bay (
newicks.com) or Warren's (
lobsterhouse.com), where locals also rave about the famous salad bar.
Bedding Down: The waterfront Sheraton Harborside (
sheratonportsmouth.com) offers great views and is a short drive to the nearest launch ramp.
Distance From Boston: 55 miles
Best Contact: goseacoast.com (select "Maritime" on the left menu bar)
Home PortWe found a 1,246-square-foot waterfront penthouse in downtown Portsmouth with a private balcony, fireplace, rooftop deck, two parking-garage spaces and boat slip available, listed for $799,900 (
marinaharbourplace.com).
