It makes poetic sense that the Native American word "Caddo" — the name of the tribe that gave Caddo Lake its name — rhymes with "shadow." Much of this 26,000-acre angler's hideaway is cast in perpetual shadows formed by 400-year-old bald cypress trees draped with Spanish moss, filtering out all but the brightest sunlight before it can reach the water.
The light that does reach the surface barely penetrates the lily-pad blooms that conceal dark bayou waters, where Caddo's most-sought-after inhabitants dwell amid roots and stumps. Yep, it's the abundance of trophy-size bass — along with crappie, bluegill and catfish — that lures fishermen from as far away as California, Canada and Australia to the most-popular freshwater lake in Texas … or is it Louisiana?
Really, Caddo is two waterways in one: an open expanse on its eastern, Louisiana side, and a series of scenic mazes on its western, Texas side, which is laden with swampy sloughs, hollows and tiny islands. But the whole body shares another trait that almost rhymes with its name: It's shallow. We're talking the kind of shallow that has done in many a careless captain.
Caddo's average depth is 4 to 5 feet, and Volkswagen-size stumps lurk inches below the waterline in spots, along with relics from Caddo's oil-boom past. (In 1900, it was the site of the nation's first above-water drilling platform, and modern pumps still suck black gold from the depths.)
"Don't just take off down the lake, or you won't make it a hundred yards," advises Paul Keith, a longtime Caddo fishing guide whose main craft is a Triton TR-200. "Look for the wooden, creosote-covered poles. You'll see letters on them and arrows pointing toward the boating lane. Stay on the side where the arrow points, because lots of those markers are right up against stumps."
Along the lake's western shores, the town of Uncertain, Texas (pop. 150), is a hot spot for launching, lodging and feasting. The hamlet's name harkens back to the mid-1800s, when steamboats, loaded with goods destined for the developing West, traversed Caddo en route to the river port at Jefferson, Texas. Because of the lake's fluctuating water levels, captains referred to mooring as "uncertain." Like a bogged boat, the name stuck.
The lake has attracted many a film crew and celebrity visitor, so boaters might spot stars ranging from passionate Caddo advocate Don Henley, to Denzel Washington and George Strait, to Kevin Costner and even Jean-Claude Van Damme; we hear he kicked some serious largemouth butt during a break from filming Universal Soldier II nearby. Even Caddo's shadows aren't immune from typecasting.
Quick Pass
First Impression: So this is where all those photos and films have been taken featuring shallow, swampy bayou water shaded by picturesque cypress and moss.
Something You Have to Do: Embark on a day trip from Caddo up the Big Cypress River to the downtown dock at Jefferson, Texas, and explore the town's jaw-dropping antebellum homes and renowned restaurants.
Trivia: When he's not livin' it up at the Hotel California, former Eagles' lead man Don Henley — who was raised around Caddo Lake — loves to spend time here.
Launching Here: It's a cinch, with wide access points including Shady Glade Marina (the most popular), Johnson's Ranch Marina, Crip's Camp, Potter's Point and Earl G. Williamson State Park on the Louisiana side.
Local Flavor: A good culinary day on Caddo includes an egg platter at Crip's Fish Camp (cripscamp.com), a burger at the Shady Glade Café and a feast of catfish at Big Cypress Restaurant in Uncertain, Texas.
Bedding Down: Locals are keen on Shady Glade for its homey cabins, rooms and trailer-home rentals (shadygladeresort.com).
Distance From Shreveport, L.A.: 40 miles [160 miles from Dallas]
Best Contacts: caddolakefishing.com, caddolake.com or local fishing guide and fount-of-knowledge Paul Keith (318-455-3437)
Home PortLakefront and lake-view properties are more prevalent on Caddo's Texas side. We found a two-story cabin on Bayou River Run, near Jefferson, Texas, with three bedrooms, two-and-a-half baths, a second-story deck, and a boathouse featuring a lift and screened sunroom, listed for $349,000 at
lakehouse.com.
