There are two types of boaters: those who have run aground and those who
will run aground. If you've already heard that skeg-on-rock crunch, you
know how it feels to have your heart skip two beats. Fortunately for your skeg,
it might not be terminal.
The damage is unsightly, but more importantly it can also affect the
performance of your boat. When in place, the skeg counteracts propeller torque
and helps protect the prop and drive mechanism. You need to fix it before the
boat goes back in the water.
Slight damage like a small chip or scrape can be reshaped with a grinder.
Severe damage may require welding and then reshaping with a grinder. Simple
repairs like this can be handled without even removing the lower unit.
If the damage is considerable -- say the skeg is nearly gone -- a
replacement skeg will need to be welded on. That will require removal of the
lower unit and disassembly of the gear case to prevent the welding heat from
damaging heat-treated gears and sensitive rubber seals. After welding, sand the
repair to bare aluminum using 240-grit wet/dry sandpaper, then wipe the area
clean with acetone (be sure to wear gloves).
Finish the job by filling any voids with two-part metal filler. Let it dry
before resanding. (It needs to be absolutely smooth to keep the boat from
cavitating.) Prep the area again with acetone, prime with a zinc chromate
primer (wear a respirator) and then paint the skeg.
When reassembling the unit you should add a new water pump impeller. Chances
are your mechanic will be handling these repairs, but having knowledge of the
process helps ensure you won't be overcharged for unneeded work.
An Ounce of Prevention
For most recreational boats, a skeg protector can be installed for less than
$100. It will minimize damage from another mishap, though it could alter the
handling of performance boats at top speed. The process requires only simple
tools and a few minutes' work. We found one called Megaware Skeg Guard at keelguard.com.
Q: I'm rebuilding the interior of my 1972 Sea
Ray SRV 190. It's rated for eight passengers but I find four are a better fit.
I've already purchased two Todd bucket seats for the front, but I'm stumped for
aft seating and the engine cover. Got any ideas? -- Preston Clark, Via
e-mail
A: I've had good experiences with two places
for that type of project via the Internet. One is Auguletto Upholstery, found
at angelfire.com/fl5/auguletto. The
other is called Scottie's Canvas and Marine Outfitters at scottiescanvas.com.
Q: I'm considering the purchase of a used boat
that looks good except for spider-web cracks on the hull below the water line.
Are they cosmetic or a sign of structural problems? Can they be repaired? --
Reed H., Via e-mail
A: Spider-web cracks are cosmetic and
usually occur from normal boating stress and hull flex. They're repairable
unless structural damage underneath is the cause. Get a survey on your
prospect. If it reveals the hull is sound, you can repair the cracks by filing
them to a "V" with the edge of a triangular file. Drill shallow holes at each
end. If available, factory gelcoat will give a near perfect match. If not,
trial and error with a coloring agent should get you a satisfactory match (try
Evercoat Marine Match n' Patch Kit, available for $22.99 at boatersworld.com). Apply the gelcoat with a
small squeegee and hold it in place by pressing wax paper against it until it
cures. Then sand and buff.
Photos by Seth Olsen
Q: I've replaced three ( soon to be four)
ignition modules on my 1993 27-foot Bayliner Ciera Sunbridge 2755 powered by a
5.7-liter MerCruiser. The first time, the boat wouldn't start for lack of
spark. The next two times, the engine began to run rough before dying. The
tachometer needle is now jumping around too. I've replaced the gas, gas
filters, water separator and distributor cap, all to no avail. Mechanics say
it's the ignition module again. What keeps causing this same failure? -- Bob
Merrill, Via e-mail
A: MerCruiser's updated replacement module
is marked "cherry" on top and it should be more reliable. Repeated failures
could also be caused by a bad electrical connection or old spark plug wires
with too much resistance. Either can cause the module to overheat and fail.
Since your tach is also acting up, you might investigate that for a short --
which could cause your ignition "miss."
Rob Gina is a certified marine mechanic and radio talk-show host in
Orlando, Florida.
